10 things your stylist should be doing during your appointment

1. Spending time during your consultation asking you what your expectations are with your hair and making sure you're both on the same page. 
If you're an existing client, checking in to see how your last visit was or how your color/cut worked out, or if you're looking for any changes with your color. 

2. Making you feel comfortable, asking if you want a magazine, anything to drink, talking you through what they are doing to achieve your desired result so that you feel at ease before getting started. 

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3. Glazing your hair if you're getting highlights. I've heard clients say several times, "I feel like a  toner is for when you mess up and need to fix a mistake" I couldn't disagree more. I glaze/tone 99% of my clients because it seals the cuticle, gives it shine, softens the blonde, gets rid of unwanted warmth, and the list goes on. A glaze or toner should be done with every highlighting service for a better end result. 

4. Writing your formula down. Every. Single. Time. I keep detailed notes about each color service so I can recreate the same look and stay consistent with my clients hair color. It amazes me that some stylists out there don't do this. 

5. Following up after your appointment if you had a major change, or are a new client. It's always good for your stylist to follow up with you regarding your service to make sure you're happy! It shows they genuinely care about you and value you as a client. 

6. Checking your haircut before you leave, or texturizing/dry cutting of some sort. Most haircuts should be double checked when dry, for length and movement. And in some cases it should be texturized or have excess weight taken out. 

7. Giving you a scalp massage. If you're not getting a scalp massage at your salon, it's time to find a new one. My assistants are trained for perfection on their shampoos, its one of the most important parts of a service to me. 

8.. Recommending products and explaining what they used to achieve or enhance your look at home. Your stylist isn't recommending products to you just to make a sale, or at least they shouldn't be. Products help my clients recreate their salon look at home, helps color last longer, and makes their hair healthier, its part of the service. 

9. Showing you how to style your hair at home during the blow dry, curling or flat iron. I like to give my clients a little lesson at the end of the service, or I will ask my assistant to show them how they're styling their hair. 

10. Trying to give you longevity. I loveee when my clients can go months, and months without having to come in and get their color done. When a client comes back after 5 months and their color has grown out nice, and doesn't look brassy, I know I've done something right. I find it important to get longevity out of hair color, by techniques like babylights, and using the right glazing formulas to cut out unwanted warmth. 

 

Boston Travel Guide!

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I was recently selected out of only two stylists in Austin to go to Boston for an exclusive Living Proof Class at their very own Style Lab. I got the chance to go behind the scenes to their actual science lab to see how they make the products, learned special details about each product from the living proof line, a couple trendy updos, and how to do Gisele Bundchens beachy, textured haircut. I'll touch on some interesting facts and show you some behind the scenes footage from their Science Lab! 

My boyfriend and I decided to go a couple days early to check out the historic city of Boston. We ate a ton of lobster, and got to see some of the coolest places in the city!  I'll share some of our favorite Boston locations with y'all, incase you ever get the chance to go! 

Boston Day 1 

We had the whole afternoon to explore on our first day in Boston! We started out by walking around Newbury Street, which is about 8 blocks filled with upscale shops, restaurants, and boutiques. The famous Georgetown Cupcake is located here and the cutest Kate Spade ever! 

After exploring Newbury street, we went over to the Harbor to have dinner on the water! We went to Legal Harborside, which is located in Boston's Seaport district. There are a few different locations around the city, but this one was our favorite because it was right on the Harbor, so it had a cool view. This location had 3 different floors, floor one with casual seafood dinning, and floor two had more formal dining. We went up to the third floor after dinner which was a rooftop lounge, it was definitely the place to be for young professionals like ourselves. It was a cool atmosphere and was packed! 

One of my favorite parts of our trip was the Cheers Bar located on Beacon Hill. I used to always watch the show, so it was cool to go inside and see the bar and grab a drink! 

Day Two

This was our only full day in Boston, so we wanted to make the most of it! We started out for Brunch at Island Creek Oyster Bar, which was my absolute favorite restaurant we went to! (we actually went back for dinner a couple nights later!) We got fresh lobster, and the Lobster Bisque! 

After brunch, we walked around Beacon Hill, which was a super cute neighborhood with federal style row houses, gaslit streets, and brick sidewalks. It also had cute boutiques and restaurants! We ventured over to the Public Garden, and then we walked the Freedom Trail! 

Right next to the Freedom Trail, was Union Oyster House, established in 1826 as the oldest restaurant in America! We got the Clam Chowder, it was delicious! 

After a full day of exploring we headed back to Cambridge, where our hotel was located, right next to MIT and Harvard! (We stayed at the Boston Marriott Cambridge and loved it! We had a full view of the city from our room and everything we wanted to see was within a 10 minute Uber ride away!) 

Before heading back though, we took a quick stop at Harvard to look around! I would probably recommend taking a guided tour offered by one of the students here if you have the time, it was really confusing to get around the campus. 

The Paul Revere House!

The Paul Revere House!

For dinner we went to the North End, which is Boston's "Little Italy" and is also the city's oldest residential community. The Paul Revere House is located here too! There are tons of restaurants located in this area, and is a super cute part of Boston to check out and walk around. We ate at Taranta, and it was okay. It has great reviews though, so I think it was just an off night. 

One of my other favorite parts of the trip was our visit to The Top of the Hub, 360 degree views from 52 floors above the city! It was a great atmosphere, they had my favorite champagne, and we got this cute little desert! 

Day 3: Class Time! 

After an eventful weekend, I went to my first day of Class at the Living Proof Style Lab! We had a presentation of the entire product line, learned some trendy updos and curling techniques, and a learned the history of the line and chemistry behind it. 

Some cool things I learned about Living Proof: 

  • Dr. Bob Langer, a MIT Professor, and biotech inventor, teamed up with other scientists, took a look at the beauty industry and discovered that most products were relying on the same standard ingredients, filled with silicones, and other hair coating ingredients that weren't making a long lasting impact on the hair. They wanted to offer "proof in a bottle" rather than "hope in a bottle." They then teamed up with celebrity hair stylist Ward Stegerhoek and Mitch Derosa who knew womens struggles, behind the chair. "Beauty met brilliant science, and this is where Living Proof was born!"

  • In almost all of Living Proofs products is a patented molecule, OFPMA. This molecule creates a thin, invisible shield around every hair strand...allowing the hair to get healthier, stronger, balances the flow of moisture in and out of strands, fights humidity, and repels dirt and oil (this is why you can go so long in-between shampoos)  

  • The next patented molecule is PBAE. This molecule creates a micro pattern of thickening dots on every strand, making hair behave like textured, full thick hair. 

  • The cause of flat hair comes down to two words: no friction. The strands are so fine and smooth that they lie flat on top of each other. PBAE creates friction and space between every fine hair, without the damage or baggage of conventional technologies! And these molecules don't break down, even as you run your fingers through your hair, making fullness last all day. 

  • My favorite dry shampoo EVER, PHD Dry Shampoo, took about 5 years to create! This is not a product line that is just out there to make money, they truly care and put their hard work and dedication into each product, even if it takes 5 years! 

After class, it was such a nice day! We went to a cute little restaurant with a waterfront view of Boston, called Pier 6 and got a drink, it was like being on a boat! 

I was also really lovin' my outfit that day, I took my Kate Spade cross body with me everywhere during our trip, and I got a ton of compliments on my Zara jeans, and Kendra Scott Necklace. 

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For dinner, we had reservations at a restaurant in the North End I had been dying to try called Mare. We got the Lobster Casserole...it. was. amazing. I think I gained 10 pounds during this meal, but it was worth every calorie, good thing we did a lot of walking. 

Day 4: Last Day! 

For the last day of class, we got to tour the Science Lab, where all of Living Proof's products are created! And then we got to work on live models, where we learned the textured, long layered Gisele cut! It was such an honor to be chosen for this opportunity with Living Proof! 

For our last night in Boston we got to go to a Red Sox Game at Fenway Park! It was such a cool experience, and the perfect way to end our trip! We stopped on the way to the game for dinner...and a really, really tall beer at Yard House! Ironically, there is also at Yard House that just opened in the Domain, right next to where we live in Austin! Later that night we went back to Island Creek Oyster Bar to get a Lobster Roll! It was DELICIOUS. 

Boston, was such a charming, quaint city! I would highly recommend a trip there if y'all ever get a chance! Don't forget to check out Living Proof, and follow @livingproofinc and my instragram @hairbyallyfeezel for more details about these great products!

The Newest Color Trend: Babylights

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By now, we've all heard of ombre, balayage, and sombre. While these colors are still trending and beautiful, there's a new look that has been all the rage for quite some time now...Babylights!! 

Amanda Hale Photography

Amanda Hale Photography

Babylights are strategic, finely placed highlights, mimicking the look of a babies hair, aka: natural, subtle and youthful. It creates the perfect, sun kissed result for any hair color! Ask your stylist to go a couple shades lighter than what you are now to get this look without a huge commitment. It also allows for longevity between appointments because you don't see the line of demarcation you get from traditional "heavier" placed highlights. 

Check out these beautiful before and afters! Alison had grown out her natural color, and had quite a bit of blonde left on the ends of the hair. To get this look, I did a full highlight, but wove each individual highlight much finer than I normally would with a traditional highlight. You can see the very fine shimmers of highlights in the above picture on the right, along with the perfectly placed face framing highlights. I was very strategic in where I would place each highlight, placing more blonde around the face, and making it brighter on the ends of the hair while still adding lightness throughout the entire head.

After highlighting, I applied two different customized glaze formulas, one at the root for a softened "shadow" effect that was slightly darker than her bright blonde ends. And then for the ends of the hair I used one my favorite ash glaze formulas. Each foil, highlight color, and glaze formula was customized to her skin tone, natural color, and existing color while keeping longevity in mind as our main concern. As you can see from the pictures below, Alison was able to achieve a much brighter look, while still placing finely placed shimmers of highlights throughout the entire head. 

Since the highlights were woven so finely and the glaze is slightly darker at the root, Alison will be able to go 10-12 weeks between appointments instead of 6-8 like a traditional highlighting technique would require, which is a huge plus for this busy blogging mom! 

Essentially any hair color can achieve this look! Blondes will want to stay bright, buttery and natural. For brunettes, ask for golden, beige or bronze ribbons of color. Darker shades will want to stay more "tone on tone' with warmer shades close to their existing color. Redheads should be coppery or golden to brighten up their look. You basically want to stay soft and natural within a couple levels of your natural color.

While this process sounds simple, it is actually very time consuming and requires an advanced stylist that knows their stuff! I typically book out more time for Babylights than I do with a traditional highlight or balayage service because it is so strategic and the sections are so much finer than normal. 

Here are some more examples of babylights! 

 

 

To see more of Alison's transformation be sure to check out her blog www.southerngloss.com and follow her on instagram @alisonrebeccamartin

Your Ultimate Guide to Leaving the Salon Happy

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As a hairstylist I am extremely passionate about what I do, and it is very important to me to make sure my clients are always happy with the results of my work. Of course, when visiting a salon you always want to leave feeling like you got your moneys worth,  happy with your hair, and absolutely beautiful. Over the years I have learned that you simply can't please every single person, I think that goes with every industry out there. There are several underlying reasons you may be leaving the salon unhappy with your service that don't involve the technical skills of your stylist. I wanted to share some things clients can do to ensure they have a peaceful, enjoyable salon experience, from a stylists' point of view. 

#1 Do your Research

It all starts before you even step foot in the salon. Most of my clients find me on social media, through my Instragram or Facebook. They search hashtags, see my work in the featured pictures, or through pictures liked by their friends. This allows my clients to have a sense of comfort and trust in place before even meeting me. They follow my accounts, gather pictures they like or even pictures they don't like, and then contact me or the salon for an appointment.

When clients contact me, I have them send me a photo of their current hair color, along with their desired hair color. I've even had clients send me detailed paragraphs explaining their hair history, concerns, and what they're hoping to achieve from their appointment with me. I love love LOVE when clients do this. It helps me understand their needs, and gives me time to reflect on what we will be trying to achieve the day of their visit. It also allows me to schedule more time with them if needed. There is nothing worse than seeing a new client, having them scheduled for only a one hour spot for color, and then realizing they need a color correction, or they have way more hair than the average client, etc.

If you consult with your stylist prior to your visit either via email, or go in for a consultation, your stylist can customize the length of your appointment and ensure that you both have enough time to achieve your hair goals. 

^^^VIEW MY INSTAGRAM HERE^^^ 

#2 Communicate Accordingly

After doing your research on your stylist and salon, finding pictures that you like, and booking enough time for your appointment, it's time to meet your stylist! Weather you're just going in for your initial consultation, or if you've already had one via email, it's time for your appointment. I definitely believe that the overall happiness of my clients comes down to the way we communicate before even getting started with the color.

As a client you should consult with your stylist about your hair goals by showing them pictures of your desired result. It helps to have a plan before going in for your consultation or appointment. Although your stylist can help direct you in the right direction for your hair color, you should still have somewhat of an idea of what you're hoping to achieve.

(See my post about your salon consultation here! )

Don't get too bogged down on trying to use your stylists terminology, how the hair color will be applied, or questioning your stylists recommendations. Usually, when a client shows me a picture, I know how to replicate it in my own way as an artist, and will explain to my client what I will be doing to achieve the results.

Try not to confuse your stylist by showing them 10 contradictory pictures and saying, "I want this color, but darker at the top and more golden at the end" or "I want this color, but I want it to look like this other picture."  I can usually gather what a client likes and doesn't like by the pictures they have gathered, however it can get a bit confusing when clients are showing several different pictures and trying to put them all into one idea. Instead try to find one or two pictures that you absolutely love and go from there! Before getting started, I repeat exactly what we talked about during our consultation so that we are both on the same page, and then I get started! 

#3 Have Realistic Expectations

Having realistic expectations is SUPER important when it comes to hair. I think this could be one of the main reasons clients leave the salon unhappy. Recently, I've had several clients coming in with dark color, wanting to go lighter like the photo shown below. Usually you can't take hair from one extreme to another in one visit, because of the integrity of the hair, and technically sometimes its just not possible! The client shown below came in wanting to be as light as we got her in the 2nd visit, and I explained to her we couldn't get her there in one day. She was patient, understanding, and trusted my professional recommendation. She didn't complain, didn't try to come back and go lighter 24 hours later, didn't get upset because she wasn't as blonde as she wanted to be in one visit. Instead she waited a few weeks, enjoyed her "in-between color"  took my advice, and came back for round two,  with the expectations of coming back again a few weeks later for more. She left the first visit, with beautiful hair, and knew she would be going even lighter her next visit. I didn't promise her the results of photo #2 because I didn't think it would be possible in one visit. It is extremely important to understand that your stylist simply can not do "magic" on your hair that has years and years of dark box color, or even professional color on it!

This goes for blondes too! I have several clients, like me, who are what we like to call "blondeorexic" meaning they want to be blonder and blonder and blonder...until its just not healthy for their hair. Sometimes it just comes down to personal preference and you simply have to ask yourself, do I want healthy hair, or to be as blonde as possible?

Not only is it important to have realistic expectations about hair color, it's also important to understand that not everyones hair is the same in texture, and the way it looks. I can often "match" the hair color of a picture very well, however, I can't make fine, thin hair look like the Pinterest pictures of someone with long luscious locks. Therefore, no matter how exact I can match your color to the celebrity that you love, if your hair texture isn't similar and you don't style it the way its shown, it most likely won't look how you're expecting. Try to find pictures of colors and cuts that have similar features, skin tone, eye color, hair length, and density as yours. Be realistic about what your stylist can achieve, how you're going to style your hair at home,  and listen to your stylists professional recommendation.

#4 Relax and Let your Stylist do their Job

Occasionally, I have clients who come in that have a hard time relaxing, or trusting me to do my job as a stylist. Often, I understand their trust issues, because I have seen, and fixed botched color applications and heard horror stories from clients about circumstances that have happened at other salons. So, when I have a client who is overly cautious, or acting extra nervous, I try to give them the benefit of the doubt by making them feel more comfortable. I do this by showing them pictures of my work, and making sure we are 110% seeing eye to eye about the service.

But, every now and then I have a client who gets too involved and can't put their trust in me to the point that it makes me uncomfortable to do their hair. I am always comfortable explaining my techniques, and being honest with my clients, however, sometimes when a client is overly analytical during their service, it could throw their stylist off, and make them unable to perform their work to the best of their ability.  Remember that every stylist has different techniques, you shouldn't believe everything you read on the internet, and no one has the same head of hair. Always trust your stylist and let them do their job. By doing so you will  put confidence in your stylist and will allow their creativity to flow! Some of my best results have been with clients who were open, trusting, asked my opinion, and just let me go to work.

#5 Use the Recommended Products

If you're investing time and money in your hair color, you must invest in good quality products to keep it looking as good as it does when you leave the salon! Your stylist recommends products to you to help keep your hair looking fabulous, between appointments, not just the day of your service. Investing in high quality products will help you achieve better color results, and keep it looking healthy, shiny, and beautiful. Clients often tell me about their hair looking dry or damaged, and then don't use any of the products I recommend to fix it. If you want to be 100% happy with your hair, you should be taking care of it at home, I promise you will notice a difference in your hair based on the quality of products that you use! You shouldn't be spending hundreds of dollars on your hair and then use drug store shampoo and conditioner on it, expecting it to look as good as it does in the salon! 


The Truth About Going Blonde

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Going from Brunette to Blonde is not an easy process. A lot of clients think it can just be done in one visit, by putting one color all over the hair, simple as that...but that's not the case. It takes skill, patience, confidence, experience, a colorist who knows her stuff, and a client who is cool, calm and collected through the many stages of blonding. In this post we will talk about wheather you're the right candidate for becoming a blonde, how to get there, and how to keep it looking good afterwards.

HERE IS A LINK TO A RECENT VIDEO I DID ANSWERING: WHY YOUR HAIR CAN’T GET BLONDER & IF BRUNETTES ALWAYS HAVE TO HAVE BRASSY TONES!>>> The Top 6 Salon Client Questions

Are you ready for this?

First things first. You need to ask yourself if you're ready to be a part of a Blondetourage. Lets talk about what it entails to become a blonde.

Damage- Going lighter calls for some type of damage to your hair. If you have box color, or any type of color at all on your hair when going blonde, your stylist WILL HAVE to use bleach. There is no other way to lighten hair with color on it. Color does not lift color out of hair. End of story. This is why it's important to gradually lighten your hair when going from one extreme to the other. If your hair is already severely damaged, you need to ask yourself, and your stylist if its in your best interest to go lighter. I've had to ask clients several times, would you rather have healthy, shiny hair or dull, damaged hair? If your stylist (or several stylists) tells you it's not in your best interest to go lighter, PLEASE trust them. You will find some stylist out there that WILL lighten your hair, however, it will probably cause damage or in worst cases, break off. I'm not saying that you can't ever go light. If your hair is healthy, and the lightening process is done correctly and slowly, you can safely go lighter with your hair over time. But even then, there will most likely be some sort of minimal damage to your hair.
 

Time- Going from dark to light takes several appointments, and normally several hours at a time. Plan to be in the salon every 4-6 weeks to start with, and plan to spend several hours in the salon with each visit. No stylist should try to take your hair from a very dark color, to light in one session. (I will talk about the process in a bit) In fact, I have turned clients away that would just not listen to me when I said I couldn't take them from dark brown to blonde in one session. If you're planning on going light, make sure you tell your salon beforehand so they can schedule enough time for you. If you're a new client, go in for a consultation first, or tell the receptionist your current color is dark and you're wanting to go blonde.

Patience- Like I stated above, it takes time to get to the desired blonde of your choice. Be patient with your stylist, when going lighter and understand that you might have to live with a color that is "in between" what you're hoping to achieve for a few weeks. Dark hair is naturally going to lift to warmer tones, especially if it has old box color on it, so you are most likely not going to be an "ash" blonde until you're closer to the lightest blonde shade. However, it should still be a pretty color in the process.

Money- Being blonde isn't cheap, it is a higher maintenance lifestyle, not suited for everyone. If your going from brunette to blonde, you will need several appointments for full highlights about every 4-6 weeks, until your desired color is achieved. Once you've reached your desired color, you will need to come in for touch ups or a base break every 5-10 weeks depending on the contrast in your natural color vs your blonde. At this point, you can get by with just doing a partial highlight, and a full every few times, which is less expensive. You will also need to invest in good products to keep your blonde looking good, and healthy! (more on that later)

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Entering the Blonde Family

Now, after deciding weather or not your ready for the blonde lifestyle, we can talk about how to get there safely, and successfully.

Go to a Pro- Trying to go blonde on your own is a big no no for several reasons. It can cause breakage, and most of the time reveals unwanted brassiness. Always go to a pro who knows how to safely take your hair light without damage, while also preventing those unwanted brassy tones! Like the client shown below, I've seen several attempts of "at home color gone wrong" and it will most definitely save you time and money to go to a professional. (color corrections aren't cheap) Don't be afraid to set up a consultation at your salon, or even a consultation at several different salons to see which one fits you best.

Be Honest- Your stylist will ask you questions about your hair history. We're not doing this for fun, we need to know exactly what was done to your hair previously, as far back as you can remember. Knowing how many times you've put color all over your hair, or how many times you've gone dark to light and then back again, will let us know how easy or difficult it will be to get you light and also tells your stylist which products to use on your hair.

Prepare for your visit- It's never too early to start using good products on your hair to get it in the best possible condition. Weeks prior to your hair appointment, start using a good protein based shampoo and conditioner. Deep Condition the heck out of it. And continue to do this for as long as you live. Or at least while your a blonde. The day of your visit, come with clean, dry hair so your stylist can see your natural color, easily. Sometimes when hair is unwashed, it makes the natural color look darker than it really is because of oils, and build up.

1st Visit- Depending on your hair history and how dark your hair is, your stylist will most likely start your first appointment by doing highlights all over. They will artistically choose what to lighten. Since you will still have some of your previous color left in between what is being highlighted, they should not leave too much contrast, or take too "chunky" of sections in order to keep the color looking beautiful and natural until your next lightening session. If your hair is extremely dark or has years of box color on it, your stylist could "strip" the color by doing a color removing process, and then proceed to do highlights. Talk to your stylist about which option is best for you. In the photo below, this client came in with one solid brown/red color. We did a full highlight the first time in order to break up the color and lighten her gradually all over. It is SUPER important to make sure your stylist knows ahead of time that you're wanting this type of change. If you are scheduled for a partial highlight and come in requesting a big change like this, your stylist will only be able to do what she has enough scheduled time for prolonging the process of going blonde even more.

2nd & 3rd Visit- Over your next few visits your stylist will strategically highlight the darker pieces out of your hair each time. As you can see from photos two and three above. Each time you should get lighter and lighter! 

Once your desired color is achieved and you've come to the conclusion that blondes have more fun...its time to schedule highlight touch ups for a while. You can play with lowlights, or different hues of blonde still. Your stylist has been putting lightener (bleach) from scalp to ends with each visit prior (hence the concern of damage) and it's now time to give your hair a break, and only focus on the "outgrowth" for a while! Sometimes I have clients who are what I like to call "blondeorexic" (no judgement cause I'm guilty as well) But going lighter and lighter and lighter to the point of no return is not good for your hair!

Everyone's lightening process will be different depending on the history of your hair, and texture of hair. Someone with less coloring processes, and thinner, fine hair may be able to lighten their hair more quickly than someone with years of color that has super thick resistant hair.

 

Keeping up with the Blondetourage

After investing time, money, and emotions into being a blondie, it's probably in your best interest to know how to make the most out of your new lifestyle! Refer to my How to prevent brassy hair post for info on how to keep the perfect hue!

Invest in GREAT Products- This will be the foundation for keeping your blonde hair looking like perfection. Nobody wants straw like hair. I would highly recommend doing this, as well as the deep conditioner once a week. This is probably the most important part of being blonde. You have to keep your hair healthy during and after the process!!

Get a Glaze- A glaze is a sheer shade that helps achieve the perfect blonde tone and seals in an extra 4-6 weeks of shine. You can pop in the salon for a clear glaze to lock in color, shine and softness, or a toning glaze to help keep your blonde from getting brassy in-between touch ups!

Use a Purple Shampoo- Using a purple shampoo is a must. Use it once a week to cut out yellow tones, and help keep your blonde bright and beautiful! Purple is the direct opposite of yellow on the color wheel, "therefore" canceling out yellow tones in hair. A favorite of mine is the Blonda Purple Shampoo from Unite!

Shampoo Less- Try making your color last longer by shampooing less! Use a dry shampoo to help you blow dry less, preventing heat damage. I LOVE the PHD Dry Shampoo from Living Proof.

*Insider tip* It's a white powder, so I cheat a little and spray it a somewhat heavily right where I part, and it makes my roots look lighter when I'm due for a touch up!! Great for Blondes!

Use Caution with Heat- As you can see being blonde is all about the products, good shampoo, good conditioner, and good leave in products! Since blonde hair is more fragile, you want to use caution when applying heat. Always use a heat protector and make sure your not over doing it with the heat tools!

 

 

How to Prevent Brassy Hair

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No one likes Brass. I mean NO ONE. In fact, I think its every clients worst nightmare...especially if you're blonde obsessed like me. There's definitely a fine line between brassy tones, and beautiful golden, honey tones when it comes to hair color! But even the best, most beautifully executed color can still reveal warmth or brassiness several weeks after a hair appointment, sometimes it's just inevitable! I'm here to tell you how you can prevent those brassy tones...once and for all. Remember, as much as it is your stylists job to prevent these tones in your hair..it is partially the clients job as well! You shouldn't always blame your stylist for brassy tones that show up in your hair, just like you don't blame your dentist when you get plaque for not flossing! I know there is nothing more frustrating than leaving the salon with beautiful brass free hair, only for it to be revealed weeks later. In return there is nothing more frustrating to your stylist seeing you come back in 8 weeks and having to fight those brassy tones each visit. It is important to take care of your hair at home in order to get the most out of your color that you just spent big bucks on.

Here's an example of a before and after done on a brassy, red orange color. Strategic highlights, low lights, and a cool toned glaze was used for a softer, brass free result.

Here's an example of a before and after done on a brassy, red orange color. Strategic highlights, low lights, and a cool toned glaze was used for a softer, brass free result.

What causes Brass?

Hard Water
Sun Exposure/Spray Tans
Build Up from Low Cost Shampoos
Chlorine/Ocean Water

Pollution/Smoke
Underlying Pigment in Hair
Incorrect color formulation

Incorrect Products
Low end hair color
Porous Hair

Okay.. so now that we've nailed down the causes of brass, lets talk about brass prevention!

 #1 Invest in a Water Softener!

Take a look at this! Mostly everywhere in the US has slightly hard, to extremely hard water. Every time I go up to visit my family in Chicago (which has extremely hard water) I see an HUGE difference in my blonde from the hard water they have up north. I normally end up coming back home with...*gasp* brassy hair!!! I try to wash my hair as little as possible when I'm there! Not only does hard water cause brassy hair, it also dries our your hair, and skin.

So... how do you prevent hard water brass?! Get a water softener!! I recommend the T3 Source Showerhead Filter from Sephora! (Click Link for Source) It's a shower filter that removes 95 percent of chlorine plus other impurities, improving hair body, shine, color retention, and skin hydration.

#2 Protect your Hair from UV Rays

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I went and got my weekly spray tan the other day...put the mesh hairnet on..got my spray on..took it off and it was covered in the spray tan solution. My first thought was, so this spray tan stains my skin for days, there's no way this little mesh is fully protecting my perfectly cool toned blonde hair! There's no way I'm giving up my spray tans, so I started bringing a heavy duty shower cap with me and it's definitely doing the job.

For those of you that still do UV tanning, or lay out in the sun, you must be protecting your hair too! Use a shower cap in the tanning bed, and use a UV protectant every time you plan on being in the sun!! I recommend 7 Seconds Glossing Spray from Unite it provides heat protection up to 450°, 24-hour UV ray protection, humidity defense and adds shine, smoothness, and polishes the hair.

#3 Clarify

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Like we talked about before, several things can cause brassy hair, product build up, hard water, pollution, and chlorine can all cause build up on the hair, leaving it dull, brassy and dry. To prevent build up try using a clarifying shampoo. You don't want to use a clarifying shampoo everyday, because it will strip your color when used too often, but using it only before your color appointment as a "detox" to remove any build up on your hair is a great idea. This shampoo is especially great after pool use, or right before a deep conditioning treatment is applied. The Unite Weekender Shampoo is a shampoo that rids hair of hard water minerals and other pollutants. I highly suggest using this before a color appointment!! Clients tend to think coming in with dirty hair is better for the color to "take" but in reality, its better to work with a freshly cleansed head of hair free of build up!

#4 Go to a PRO

Incorrect color formulation, underlying tones in natural hair, and low end color can all result in brassy toned hair. In my previous post, The Official Glossary for Hair Salon Lingo, we talked about toners, and the underlying pigments in hair. Anytime you lighten your hair with highlights, or color, the underlying pigments naturally come out that are normally warm, or brassy. Your stylist should know how to control warmth, and brassiness for your specific shade of hair. I've had clients come to me with color they've done at home, that looks so brassy it's orange, because they didn't know that when lightening their level 6 hair that has an underlying pigment of orange, they should have used a blue based color, or they "highlighted" their hair at home and it looks yellow, because they didn't know to use a violet based toner. It's not as simple as just putting "blue" or "violet" on your hair either, because I hardly ever do that, I normally mix up 2-3 different colors together for different types of situations like gray hair, porous hair, resistant hair, previously colored hair and the list goes on...  It takes years of experience, and training to know exactly which signature shade I need for each specific hair type.

The type of hair color you use is important too! Box color will most likely result in brassy color fading, either from incorrect formulation like we talked about above, or simply because its inexpensive. You get what you pay for. I have clients coming back to me 10, 12, and even 16 weeks after color with no signs of brass in their hair and that's due to professional color and professional color formation.

#5 Products are Key

If you are blonde, stop what you're doing and get a purple shampoo. Right now. And if you're brunette don't fear.. they make blue shampoos for you! Purple shampoo will cut yellow tones out of blonde hair when used once a week and the blue shampoo cuts out brassy orange tones for brunettes. Its like a toner for at home! See my Essential List of Beauty Products Revealed for my post about purple shampoo! I recommend using one every week for about 3-5 minutes in the shower.

After investing a significant amount of money on your hair, its important to invest money in excellent products to help keep your hair looking good! Otherwise, instead of saving money by getting just a color touch up in between appointments, you'll be spending more money every visit trying to fight brassy hair! My clients that go 10-12 weeks in between appointments all have one thing in common, they invest in good products! Your hair can't be Louboutin and your products be Wal-Mart ladies!! Try using a sulfate free Shampoo, like the The Unite 7 seconds line, the Kevin Murphy Restore line or the Virture Repair line to preserve your color!

Another cause of brassy hair is due to the porosity of your hair. Extra porous hair tends to absorb pollution, hard water, and other environmental causes resulting in hair turning brassier than non porous hair. It means your hair has been damaged, through environmental factors, over processed color or the overuse of heat. If your hair seem to stay wet for a long time, or your strands absorb moisture from your products as quickly as they lose it...then your hair is most likely porous. Porous hair allows for the entrance of all the things that cause brass. So, how do you fix it? Use a protein shampoo, conditioner, and deep conditioner combo, get trims, find a healthier color routine, and lay off the heat products.
 

The Most Important Part of your Salon Visit

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Did you know that your stylist should consider your consultation THE most important part of your salon visit? It sets up the overall happiness of your service, ensures that you and your stylist are on the same page, and helps your stylist get to know you, and vise versa. As a senior stylist, I have a structured criteria that I follow as well as train new stylists on to set them up for success when taking clients. I wanted to share with everyone what your stylist should be doing and asking during your consultation, and what you as a client can do to prepare for your visit as well! Enjoy!

Here are some general rules I follow as a Stylist

  • Ask Questions. I spend up to 15 minutes asking as many questions as possible.

  • Analyze. From there, I determine the texture of hair, porosity of hair, find the natural color of hair using a color swatch chart, determine the percentage of gray and analyze the skin tone/face shape.

  • Get a visual. I always pull up or look at the clients pictures, and analyze the heck out of them. Usually, I even pull the picture up in the back room where I mix up color, and spend a ridiculous amount of time formulating to perfection.

  • LISTEN LISTEN LISTEN!!!!!!!!!!! I write down, take mental notes and genuinely listen to what my client is saying before I begin any sort of professional recommendation. The best compliment that I receive from many clients is that I listen to them and I truly believe that is part of what has made me so successful as a stylist.

  • Keep Record. It amazes me how many stylists I have encountered that don't take any sort of notes with what colors they used on their client, or what they talked about during the consultation. The stylists at my salon write down everything...From the colors I used, to how I applied it, to what colors they don't like, what colors they do like, to why they left their last salon, to what would make their experience excellent...and the list goes on.

  • Check in. The consultation is usually lengthy and most important on an initial visit, however I check in every single time, even on clients I've been seeing for years. I check in by asking how their cut or color was, if they're looking for any type of change, or if there were any problems or concerns with their last visit.

  • Be Precise! When a client says they want an inch off, I get a comb with a ruler on it and show them what an inch is. When they say they want a bob, I turn them around and with a mirror, I show them how short the bob will be in the back. When they say they want caramel highlights, I pull up pictures of what caramel is.

  • Repeat. Before beginning any service, I reiterate exactly what we will be achieving during the visit, to ensure we're on the same page before we even begin!

Aside from these general rules, I also ask or have paperwork with a series of questions...

  • What do you like or dislike about your hair? This is the most important question in the consultation because it begins to point your stylist in the right direction. What the client dislikes about her hair is just as important as what she likes, if not more so. When you begin to understand what she dislikes, you begin to set boundaries that you know not to cross in order to keep them happy. I make note of what a client likes and write it down in their file. If a client shows a picture, I ask what they like/dislike about the picture

  • What is your personal style? A stylist needs to make sure they're giving their clients a look that they feel comfortable in on an everyday basis. Do they like sleeker, simple styles or tousled romantic waves?

  • What is your professional style? Its important to make sure clients think about their work attire when deciding on a hairstyle. Sometimes the client that likes fun, wild hair forgets that she has to keep it professional at work, or they have to be ready at 5:30AM everyday and needs a quick easy cut!

  • What are your long term goals for your hair? Sometimes clients make decisions based on frustrations with their hair or even in their personal life. I like to find out what my clients long term goals are. If I have a client who is growing her hair out but is frustrated with the stage it’s at, it’s probably not in her best interest to cut off 4 inches of hair.

  • How committed are you to salon visits? This question is very important for the client. If they want platinum highlights but cannot get back to the salon for 3 months, I might suggest a more low maintenance look. This is when I usually let my client know how long their color or cut will last them before needing another appointment.

  • How much time are you willing to spend on your hair? Again, it's important to make sure a client realizes how much time they will be spending maintaining their style at the salon, or in this case in the each day. A client will be frustrated with a high maintenance haircut if she wants a low maintenance look.

  • How do you usually style your hair? A client that does nothing but air dry their hair is not going to be happy with something that has to be blown dry to look good. It's important to make sure that their style compliments their lifestyle and they are able to replicate their style at home.

  • What challenges do you face with your hairstyle? By asking clients this question, it tells me what I can do to help them recreate a style at home. I like to show clients how to use a round brush, flat iron, etc.

  • What products are you currently using? This question lets the client know that
    I'm truly concerned with the health of their hair, the longevity of their color and
    whether or not they can achieve the results they want at home. I like to lead
    clients in the right direction so they are able to recreate their look at home, help their $200 color last as long as possible and keep their hair in the best condition possible.

  • Do you have existing color on your hair? I can usually determine this myself because of experience, however ALWAYS be honest with this question and let your stylist know how long its been since you've colored your hair and what type of color service you received last time you had it colored.

Here are some things you can do as a client to ensure a successful Consultation!

  • Be Prepared. Arrive on time and with an idea of what you are wanting to achieve. Do some research before you arrive and give your stylist an idea of what you like/dislike so they have a starting point. You can even refer to my "talking the talk" post to catch up on some salon lingo!

  • Be Honest. This is super important! Whether you box colored your hair at home, or visited another salon, honesty is the best policy. Hair color will act differently if we are under the impression there is no color on it and there is, so it is always best to tell your stylist your history of your hair so there are no unwanted results.

  • Bring Pictures. But don't bring 15 pictures that are all different. 3 is a good number. It's okay to bring pictures of what you like or dislike, or of a time you really loved your hair. Look in magazines, on pinterest, or refer to my instagram

  • Trust your Stylist. Listen to your stylists suggestions, they are the professional and should be up to date on the current trends and will know what will and won't work for you. Sometimes I have clients that I can tell are very nervous and having a hard time relaxing, adding this stress to your stylist makes it hard for them to perform to their most creative potential because they can be worried, or overly conservative. Every stylist does things differently, just because you had a bad haircut with layers from your last stylist doesn't mean you should never get layers again..If you trust your stylist enough to proceed after the consultation, then trust them enough to perform their service the way they see fit.

  • Be Open. Just because you had skunk striped highlights 10 years ago doesn't mean you should never get highlights again. If your stylist is making a recommendation on how to achieve a certain look, or to change something up about your style, it's a good idea to listen to them. They are the professional!

  • Be realistic. Understand that not one persons hair is alike, it is best to realize that your stylist is giving you the best version of what your hair can achieve. If your stylist says a certain style won't work with your hair type, trust their opinion and talk about other options.

  • Reflect on last appointment. I have built trusting relationships with my clients, and they know they can come to me about what they liked or disliked about their last style and I will listen. It's important to tell your stylist feedback about your last service so they can address and make changes accordingly. Open communication leads to great service.

  • Ask about prices. If you are on a budget or concerned with cost, be upfront and talk to your stylist ahead of time. Most of the time your stylist can recommend a different, lower maintenance look if you're looking to frequent the salon less. You can also talk about different techniques that cost less, for example a partial highlight instead of a full, or a balayage for a more natural grow out.

I hope this helps next time your heading to the salon for a consultation! Feel free to leave any more consultation questions that you need answered!

The Modern Girls Guide to Salon Etiquette

Part of the reason I wanted to start this blog was to change the public view of the beauty industry. I feel like hairstylists get a bad rep compared to other professional services. Unfortunately, there is a reason many clients look at us this way, and it’s most likely because of bad experiences in unprofessional salons. I have heard horror stories from clients that went to previous salons, which helps me understand why a lot of clients are so nervous when they come in! I’m here to tell you not all salons are created equal, and your salon should be your happy place...a place that makes you feel comfortable, warm, welcomed, and important. 

With this being said…I want to answer some questions that I can tell many clients are hesitant to ask. I also want to share with you how to be THAT client, the one that gets your stylist excited when they see your name on the schedule. Trust me, I know this relationship is not a one way street, I’m sure you have a dream stylist, or criteria you would like your stylist to follow…But I’ll save that for another post!

 Tipping

What should I tip?
-I like to look at tipping as a gift to my service, I don’t expect a tip, however 99% of my clients do tip me every time. A standard tip is 20% of the service total. If you feel like your stylist went above and beyond, or your service was more complicated, you may think about tipping more as an added gesture. If you were running late, missed your last appointment, or got “squeezed in” at the last minute, you may think of leaving a little extra something as a thank you.

Should I tip the assistant?
-Just like tipping your stylist, assistants think of leaving a tip as a gift. You are not expected to leave the assistant a tip, but it is certainly welcomed. When I was assisting I normally received anywhere from $5 to all the way up to $20 just for a shampoo! Most assistants are making anywhere from minimum wage to $10 an hour as a salon employee, so leaving a tip is a nice way to say thank you for that wonderful head massage! If the assistant did your blowout, or any part of your coloring service, consider tipping $10 and up.

Do I tip more around the Holidays?
-You should never feel obligated to give something extra for the holidays, but I do have several clients that bring me goodies around Christmas. Even something like a hand written note makes me so happy! Some clients bring small gifts, bottles of wine, cookies, handmade gifts, or tip a little extra around this time. I also have clients who bring me their family Christmas cards and I love that, I always put them up on my fridge at home. Anything is a meaningful expression of your gratitude, greatly appreciated and remembered. I also always give each client something around the holidays.

Should I still tip if I was unhappy with my service?
- Trust me, your stylist always wants you to leave happy, so if something went wrong, take other factors like miscommunication into consideration instead of just forgoing the tip altogether. If you are unhappy your service, consider tipping as a courtesy, but less. A 10% tip would be a recommendation. ALWAYS talk with the stylist, owner, or manager if you are unhappy with your service and they should offer you a complimentary redo or refund. Of course, if your experience was completely awful or unprofessional, no tip is required.

Should I tip for a complimentary redo?
-Tipping is not required for a complimentary redo since you have most likely already tipped your stylist. However, if your stylist is kind, and happy to accommodate this for you you could consider leaving a small tip as a gesture. Since a lot of stylists book up weeks in advance, they are most likely coming in early or staying late for you.

Do I tip the owner if she’s the one doing my hair?
-The modern rule for tipping the owner is…yes! I honestly don’t know how the owner of my salon has time to have a thought of her own, let alone take clients! Her day is spent tackling her business, kids, pets, husband, managing employees, her employee’s clients, salon reps, and… her own clients?! If the salon owner is doing your hair and can still carry on a rational conversation with you…that’s impressive! So with this being said, it is always a kind gesture to tip up to 20% of your service as a thank you...they are still hairstylists after all!

Should I tip for my complimentary bang trim?
-Your stylist is scheduling about 15 minutes out of their day to do your bang trim. Anywhere from $5 to $10 is welcomed.

APPOINTMENTS

What if I’m running late?
-We understand things happen, and you end up stuck at work or in traffic. If you are running late for your appointment, call your salon and give them a heads up. If know you will be more than 15 minutes late consider rescheduling your appointment so you stylist won’t feel rushed through your service. Some salons have a policy that they don’t take appointments that are more than 15 minutes late. Most color appointments are scheduled anywhere from 30 minutes for a simple touch up to 1 hour or more for a highlight. Say you are getting highlights, if you are 15 minutes late that is already 45 minutes into your 1 hour appointment. By the time the stylist consults with you and mixes the color, you will most likely be about 30 minutes or more into your scheduled time, leaving only 30 minutes to do a highlight. This is especially bad if you are a new client!! Sometimes this will work, but most of the time it won’t. Your stylist might try to accommodate you (because we truly hate to see you upset), but will definitely feel rushed, or unable to give you the best service possible! Running late also puts your stylist behind for the rest of the day, leaving a domino effect. If their first client is 15 minutes late, every appointment for the rest of the day will be about 15-20 minutes behind, leaving some clients annoyed with your stylist. My advice? Arrive a few minutes early to your appointment, if you’re running late give your salon a call and ask if you should reschedule.
If your stylist still takes you after being late, be flexible with who does your blowout, or shortening the length of your service, maybe only getting a color touch up, or a partial highlight instead of a full.

What if my stylist is running late?
-We run behind as well! As stated above, one person running late creates a domino effect. So it could just be that your stylist had one client show up late which is putting them behind for the whole day. Sometimes a client was scheduled for a color retouch and they are requesting a partial highlight. These services have different scheduling time, which can also put us behind. (See my previous post for these terms defined!) Sometimes a new client comes in and has super thick hair, or is requesting a more complicated service than expected. If your stylist is running behind, relax in the lobby, enjoy a beverage and look through a magazine or at pictures of hair. If your stylist is constantly running behind, consider talking with them or the manager about it.

Why does my stylist work on more than one person at a time
-I hear very often from new clients, “My last stylist was always working on several people at a time and I hated it” I can understand your frustration with this, especially if it means you have a lot of waiting time during your appointment. I am fortunate enough that I work at a salon with several assistants, which means my clients almost NEVER have to wait for me to finish with one client, before they can have a seat in my chair. Therefore, my clients don’t have this issue to worry about! I am sometimes overbooked, because I am in high demand and often fit several clients into one day (I do it to make you all happy!) but it never seems to be an issue because I am efficient with my time and book accordingly.

We double book clients to fit you all into the schedule! Most of my color appointments take about 2 hours give or take. I normally work about 8-10 hours a day; enabling me to take about 4-5 clients for color appointments WITHOUT double booking. That’s about 20-25 clients a week. I would have some very disappointed clients if I could only have 20-25 clients a week! (I normally see 30-40 clients a week, or about 6-9 a day depending on the service) Every client who gets color processes for about 30-45 minutes after I apply their color. So, while each client was processing, I would be sitting in the back waiting for 45 minutes until each client was done with their processing time if I didn’t double book. Most of my cuts and partial highlights take about 45 minutes anyway…so I take a client during this time.

If you are at a good salon, they shouldn’t be making you feel rushed in and out of your appointment. Yes we may seem busy, but personally, I love when I’m super busy! It gives me energy, and excites me…its inspiring and I love the fun of making 2 or 3 clients beautiful at one time! It is also a lot of fun when I have two clients who start up a conversation with each other, it’s so fun! If you feel like your stylist is not giving you enough attention during your service, consider talking with them about it. If you prefer not to be double booked, that’s totally fine! Just be willing to pay for the amount of time your stylist is not booking for you. It’s rare to find a salon that does not double book their clients

Why does my appointment take so long?
-It’s a busy world out there these days. I get it. But beautiful hair takes time! Most color appointments take at least 2 hours, if not more. If you’re concerned with the time of your service, ask how long it will take before the day of your appointment. There’s nothing worse than having a client on a time crunch while you’re trying to recreate their pinterest board. Usually the consultation with a new client takes about 10 minutes, we mix up the color, get a game plan, another 10 minutes, apply the color for about an hour (more or less), you process for 30-45 minutes (or more) we shampoo, maybe glaze, condition, head massage, another 15-20 minutes, cut for 15 minutes and blow dry/style for about 45 minutes! That’s about 3 hours give or take. We’re not just taking our sweet time; most stylists are just trying their best to give you the best service possible. Once you get into a routine with your stylist, it will probably take you less time. The first appointment is always the longest.

Do I need to have a plan before I arrive for my appointment?
-Having a plan in mind before you arrive is always a good idea. Not only does it save time during your consultation, but it gives your stylist examples of what you’re looking for! I sometimes have clients say, "what do you think I should do", which is fine…if I’ve been doing your hair for at least 3 or more visits. Yes, I am the professional and am here to make recommendations or tell you what will look best but, I personally like to get a sense of your style by pulling up a Pinterest board and asking what you like or don’t like. Since I don’t know my clients on the first visit, I don’t know that they hated their hair that one time they did lowlights, or hates having gold tones in their hair, therefore it’s hard for me to do what I think is best without some guidance as to what a client likes.

Is it okay to cancel my appointment?
-If you need to cancel your appointment do it ASAP. 48 hours is the policy at my salon, but the sooner the better. I normally book up a few weeks out, so if you know you will need to cancel, call as soon as possible so I can fill that spot with other clients! If you cancel your appointment last minute, it is not uncommon for a salon to require a credit card to reserve your next appointment, and it will be charged. One last minute cancellation is acceptable if something came up, but still leaves your stylist with an unpaid, unfillable spot in their schedule that other clients could have taken. We understand things come up, but unfortunately in this industry we have too many clients who just no show, or cancel last minute for no reason! Imagine your boss telling you to clock out or take 2 hours of unpaid time, but to still continue working. A stylist’s income is based on clients setting up appointments and keeping them. If you do have to cancel last minute, ask to speak to the stylist so you can personally apologize, explain your reason, and offer to pay for the time you took off of their schedule. I usually won't accept, unless it becomes habitual.

Do I have to book in advance?
Busy stylists often book up weeks in advance and have waiting lists. Don’t call last minute, before an event or vacation and ask to be “squeezed in.” I will squeeze clients in if I can, but often when I do, I am not able to provide the excellent service I would like to because I am rushed! It is always best to plan ahead to ensure the time and date that you want. I often have clients who call last minute to get in, and I can tell they are frustrated when they can’t schedule for 2 weeks. Prebooking your appointment will help ensure the time and date you are wanting before its too late. Trust me; it is a good sign if your stylist is this busy!

Call ahead before your preset appointment if you know you want to switch up the color.
This is a big one that most clients don’t realize! Sometimes I have clients prebook their appointments for just a touch up, or partial highlight. When they come in they have decided they want a more extensive service such as switching from a touch up to a highlight or switching to a balayage which requires much more time than allotted! I am always excited to change it up, but when I have only scheduled a 30 minute color touch up and a client is requesting a balayage which takes about an hour or more, there just isn’t enough time! In between appointments, if you think you want to switch it up, just give your stylist a call in advance so they can adjust or rearrange their time for you! We just want to ensure that we have enough time to give you the color you’re looking for! It will never bother us if you want to try something new!

Why does it cost so much?
-Time, product, education and expertise all play a factor in my prices. It takes hours to perfect your color into the hair your wanting, part of your cost is paying for the time taken. Another factor is product! It is more expensive than you think! A good stylist uses high end products (that will last longer), and we mix different tubes of color to provide a signature shade created just for you. One tube of color is anywhere from $10-12. We have hundreds of different tubes at my salon, and some clients use one whole tube just for one service. Not to mention the products we use to style your hair, cut your hair, and blow dry your hair are costly too! My scissors cost more than $500! At Blonde Faith, we use the best of the best, and that comes with a higher price. When you are paying more for a service, you are paying for expertise as well. Last year alone I attended over $4,000 worth of educational classes to further my career and provide the best and most modern services for my clients. Not to mention most stylists, don’t get paid vacation time, never take sick days, work holidays, and aren’t provided with a 401k. We work hard to make our clients happy and because we love what we do. Don’t be afraid to ask your stylist how long they’ve been a stylist, or what type of continuing education they attend. After all…that’s part of what you’re paying for.
It is very insulting when clients try to negotiate prices, or complain about your prices during their service. However, nicely talk with your stylist if you simply just can’t afford them (there’s a different between complaining and nicely discussing budgets) I can usually recommend different types of coloring services that are more cost effective or another stylist in the salon such as a junior stylist!

CONFESSIONS

What if I want to try a new stylist?
-Most clients think, I will just cancel my appointment and never see them again. That is not the correct way to handle a break up. Think of it as breaking up with a partner! When I have a client mysteriously vanish I would rather know the honest truth as to why they will no longer be coming to me, that’s what helps me grow in my career. I often think of a client I have not seen in a while and wonder how they're doing. Just tell your stylist if you are unhappy with something their doing, and give them a chance to fix it. If it’s not fixed, consider telling them why you will no longer be coming to them without belittling them. You don’t have to do it in person, consider sending a text, email or leaving the message with a receptionist. Even if you think it’s harsh, they will appreciate you for it in the long run.

What if I want to try a new stylist in the same salon?
-It happens, you see another stylist and think, they seem like a better fit. Or, your friend went to them and loved their experience. Either way, it’s not the end of the world. A good stylist would rather you be happy, continue coming to their salon, and maybe even be relieved that you are able to find someone that fits with you better. I know it’s awkward enough to break up with your stylist, let alone continue to see them every 6 weeks…in another chair. Talk with the owner or manager about making the switch and they will handle it from there. It is your service, and overall happiness that matters and your stylist should handle it with grace and professionalism each time they see you.

How do I break up with my stylist and salon?
-Consider sending a thank you letter, email or calling. Explain why you will be leaving and thank them for their service. If you have tried everything you can to make it work, let them know, and give them your honest opinion as to why you will no longer be a client. If you have had a bad experience with the salon, think very clearly before trashing them online, or leaving a bad review, especially for small businesses. We sometimes do things out of anger, when a problem could be handled much differently.

Do I have to tell my stylist when I cheated? Or if I did my color at home?
-YES. If you went to someone else or did your own color at home tell your stylist. Box coloring affects the way our products work on the hair, so we need to know your hair history. If you went to another stylist, I personally wouldn’t be offended, because you are sitting back in my chair for a reason.  Just be honest with your stylist and let them know what you have done to your hair since you last saw them in order to ensure the best results.

What if I don’t like my hair?
-If you don’t like your hair call the salon ASAP! Don’t be afraid to be honest with your stylist if you don’t like the way it turned out. I would rather a client let me know if there are issues than leave unhappy. Sure, it can be upsetting to hear you aren’t happy, but I am happy if a client gives me a chance to fix the situation. If your stylist has already started on another client and you are being styled out by someone else, tell the person blow drying you, or tell the front desk when you check out. They will most likely pull the stylist away from their current client and let them know what’s going on. You may ask to come back in for a complimentary appointment with your same stylist or with another stylist. It is always best to give your stylist another chance to make things right before giving up, you may be surprised!

Do I have to make small talk with my stylist?
-Don’t ever feel like you have to chat during the whole service! If you’ve had a busy day and just want to relax, reply with one word answers for a while and your stylist will get the hint. Or, just simply say “I’m so tired! Don’t mind me if I just relax” It is nice for us to just work in quiet sometimes, especially after a busy day, so I promise your stylist won't mind. At the same time, don’t be offended if your stylist is quiet while doing an intensive service or highlights, they are probably just concentrating.

Is it okay to come with dirty hair? What about wet hair?
-Yes it is okay to come with dirty hair, although I personally believe it is better to do a color service on fresh clean hair. I think the color has a better opportunity to work on a clean palate of hair. Dirty hair has product build up, and oils on it which could prevent the color from working properly. You don’t have to wash your hair right before your appointment; 2 days of unwashed hair shouldn’t be a problem.

Don’t come to any appointment with wet hair. For a haircut it is always best to come with dry hair so your stylist can see what your hair looks like dry. Coming to a color appointment with wet hair means your stylist will have to blow dry your hair before you begin your service, which could put your stylist a little bit behind before getting started.

Why does my stylist always recommend products?
-Your stylist shouldn’t be coming off as too pushy when selling products. I tell my clients what I’m using so they're knowledgeable about how to recreate the look at home. Yes, I make a small commission off of products, but that is certainly not my motivation when informing clients about products. For me it is just a natural routine and I look at it as an important part of your service. My clients come to me with a primary, and secondary concern about their hair and it is my job to resolve that for them. I never try to “sell” products. I am always very honest in recommending what I think a client would benefit from using! We also get shipments of products in almost weekly that we guarantee to be fresh, unlike a third party, like a drugstore.

Can I bring my kids?
-No. Unless they are getting a service done, it is respectful of other salon guests, who have gotten child care, to leave your children at home. Some clients are in the salon to relax and get away from their kids for a couple hours. It is a courtesy to others to not bring your children to the salon.

Can I use my cell phone?
-It doesn’t bother me when a client is on their phone while we’re doing color. I have some clients who come while they're working from home, so they take calls, and put their phone up to the ear that I am not working near, then switch when I get to that side. It personally doesn’t bother me. It is an issue however during the cut, and at the shampoo bowl. Avoid taking a call while your stylist is cutting or shampooing your hair.

Keep your head still!
-It is extremely important to leave your head where your stylist puts it and try to be still during a haircut. It can throw off a whole cut if your balance is off or if you’re looking a different way. If you’re getting color done, try to keep your head still as well. No one is expecting you to sit like a statue, but it is very difficult to put color on someone’s hair, or cut a straight line if your head is all over the place!

Why do stylists all have different opinions?
-I hear different stories about things “the last stylist” did or told my clients. Doing hair is a science, and art. There are many different ways to do things, and many different ways to achieve a certain result. We all have our own opinions and many stylists disagree on different techniques. There is not always a right or wrong way, just a preference.

Should I follow my stylist if she leaves?
-If you like your stylist and they are moving somewhere convenient that you wouldn’t mind following them to, then yes! It is not uncommon for a stylist to take a new job at a new salon. It is a great feeling for your stylist to be in a salon that they are happy in not to mention, your stylist is probably more motivated too! After I made my move to Blonde Faith, my clients that followed me were always telling me how much happier I seemed, and it was so sweet to hear that from them. 

I hope this helped answer any questions you've had during your visits to the salon. As always please comment or e-mail with any other questions or advice!    

How to talk to your hairstylist during your consultation

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For my first post I wanted to start with something I get questions about daily as a stylist, Terminology! Have you ever wondered what the heck your stylist is saying, but just sit there nodding in agreement in hopes you are on the same page? Every good hairdresser truly wants you to walk away from your appointment feeling completely happy with the outcome.

Going to the salon may be like going to a foreign country if you don't know how to communicate with your stylist. The vocabulary we use makes sense to us as stylists, and we don't do it to confuse you, for many of us, our terminology is just second nature. While I believe it is the professionals responsibility to break our terms down, it doesn't hurt to have a little knowledge about your salon visit! We certainly don't expect you to pick up a second language before sitting in the chair, but not knowing how to communicate with your stylist can lead to not being on the same page with your service as well...and neither of us want that. A lot of clients say they want a certain style or color, but they don't fully understand what they are asking for. With this being said, try to avoid using hairstylist's terms if you don't fully understand what they mean! Ifyou find your stylist is speaking gibberish, don't be afraid to speak up and ask what something means, we are glad to explain and clarify any questions!

Hair Salon Glossary

Base Color:  Color applied to the new growth area either as a stand alone service or in between specialty foil work. Normally a darker or richer color than what is on the ends of the hair. A base color can be applied every other appointment alone to increase the amount of time before highlights are needed again and is usually always done if there is a significant amount of gray hair present in the hair. Typically a very quick process that takes about 15 minutes to apply when done alone with no foils.

Base Break/Bump: Blends and Brightens the roots of the hair that are left after a highlight. Essentially "breaking up" the darker natural color and softening it. Typically done on a blonde at the shampoo bowl for just a few minutes

Balayage: The go-to color for modern, chic hair! Balayage creates depth and dimension, and leaves you with a sun-kissed finish. It means to sweep or paint hair giving a sun-kissed natural look and allows for softer less noticeable regrowth line. Since color is usually present on the hair, most of the work I do to create a balayage look is initially done with foils for more control. There are many different techniques that people use to create this look.

Babylights: Mimicking sun-kissed tones from the hair of children. The majority of your color should still be your natural color, only adding delicate highlights, mainly around the face and hairline.

Blunt: A sleek, straight line at the length of a cut. There is no texture in this cut, you can think of a classic bob, or a one length haircut.

Choppy: A textured haircut where the ends vary slightly in length, eliminating any "blunt" lines. If you have straight hair, a razor can be used to achieve this cut!

Contrast: The difference you see between colors, high contrast would be a very bold difference while low contrast is very subtle difference. Adding a base color, lowlights and highlights to the hair creates "contrast." The amount of contrast is totally up to you and your stylist!

Color Correction: Removing, correcting, or blending unwanted color results. Most often, this service is usually a lengthy color removing process which "strips" color out of the hair to create a fresh palette. Usually a combination of separate color applications and appointments. This could also mean something as simple as you wanted to be honey blonde and ended up with platinum blonde hair or you colored your hair at home and you turned your hair black instead of the warm brown shown on the box. Don't try this at home!!

Color wont lift color: I often hear clients say they want to lighten their hair, but don't want me to use "bleach." If you have existing color on your hair, this is next to impossible. For example, if you color your hair black one day and decide that a month later you want to color your hair a lighter brown shade, you’re hair isn’t going to change colors just by putting one color on top. You’ll need to strip the hair by bleaching it. With that being said, don't be afraid of the word bleach, a good stylist will know what your hair can handle, and will conservatively take your hair to the desired shade by doing some type of  gentle highlighting technique.
 

Dimension: Different shades of color within the hair allowing the color to not look dull or flat. If your hair looks like it is one solid color, adding low-lights or highlights will add "dimension"

Face Framing Layers: Layers starting at or below the chin and continue down to the length of the hair. They can be soft or defined depending on your preferance!

Gloss: A Gloss is different than a toner or glaze. Adding a gloss to the hair will add shine, and seal in color by closing the hair cuticle without adding any color to the hair. It is normally clear and done on already colored hair, or a coloring service that doesn't require a "toner" after a coloring service as an extra revitalizing service! You could think of it like a top coat of nail polish..for your hair!

Layers: Different lengths in the interior of the hair that add movement and volume. You can have short layers, to very long, to almost invisible layers, that remove weight from the hair and creates bounciness!

Texturizing: Removing bulk from thick hair by cutting diagonally into it, or using different cutting techniques to create softness in the layers or length of hair.

Toner/Glaze: This is by far the most commonly misunderstood question I get from clients. Every time my assistant removes the foils and shampoos the hair, I come over and decide if I will be using a "toner" and 95% of the time, I get asked, "What is a toner? or Why do I need it?" First of all, don't be afraid of a toner!!! I promise you, if I am using a toner on your hair...you want a toner on your hair. I am not using it to correct a mistake, charge you more, or because something went wrong with your color. 

(The colors on the left of this swatch show natural levels of hair. The right is the exposed underlying pigment in hair that each level lifts to. After lightening the natural color to the desired level of lightness, an appropriate toner is used!)

(The colors on the left of this swatch show natural levels of hair. The right is the exposed underlying pigment in hair that each level lifts to. After lightening the natural color to the desired level of lightness, an appropriate toner is used!)

When you lighten your hair, the underlying colors come out that are normally warm, or brassy. A toner cancels out unwanted yellow, gold, orange or red tones in your hair, giving it a more natural look. Because most people have a history of color on their hair, its uncommon for highlights to lighten to the perfect, evenly colored blonde you are wanting without the help from a toner.. or unless you are a unicorn. In other words, you can't lift hair to a desired color, only levels of lightness.

A toner also softens the look of the regrowth  for a seamless transition of color from roots to ends. Sometimes your roots will come out brighter because that part of your hair has no color on it (your new growth) a toner will be placed on the root, to blend with the previous highlights.

It adds shine, softness, and seals in your color as well. If you're not getting a toner at your salon, I recommend talking to your stylist about adding this to your next service.

 

Have any other terms you need defined? Comment Below!!